Polyester vs Cotton for Sportswear: B2B Fiber Selection Guide
Direct Answer
For activewear and sportswear, polyester is the correct choice. Polyester wicks moisture to the fabric surface for evaporation (dries in 2-3 hours) while cotton absorbs moisture into its fibers (dries in 6-8 hours, stays wet and heavy during activity). Polyester garments last 100+ wash cycles vs. cotton's 50-75 cycles, and shrink <2% vs. cotton's 3-8%.
The one exception: lifestyle/athleisure products where "natural" perception matters more than athletic performance. For these applications, use cotton-like polyester—engineered fibers that mimic cotton's soft hand feel while retaining polyester's performance benefits.
Decision framework:
- High-intensity sports, uniforms, frequent washing → 100% polyester
- Casual athleisure, "natural" marketing angle → Cotton-like polyester
- Low-intensity casual wear, budget constraints → 65/35 poly-cotton blend
- Never for performance activewear → 100% cotton
TL;DR — Fiber Selection Summary
- Polyester wins on performance: Wicks moisture (doesn't absorb), dries 3x faster, lasts 2x longer, shrinks 4x less
- Cotton loses for sports: Absorbs 25x its weight in moisture, stays wet, promotes chafing, fails faster
- Blends are compromises: Better than cotton, worse than polyester—middling performance in all metrics
- Cotton-like polyester solves the feel issue: Modern engineered fibers provide cotton softness with polyester performance
- Cost advantage polyester: Lower fabric cost + longer lifespan = significantly better total cost of ownership
Table of Contents
- Why This Matters for Sourcing Teams
- The 5-Step Fiber Selection Process
- Fiber Performance Comparison Checklist
- Questions to Ask Your Fabric Supplier
- Common Fiber Selection Mistakes
- Related Resources
- About Huada Creation's Fiber Options
Why This Matters for Sourcing Teams
Fiber selection is the first and most consequential decision in sportswear development. Get it wrong, and you'll face:
Customer complaints: "This shirt stays wet during workouts" — the #1 complaint for cotton activewear Return rates: Cotton sportswear returns run 15-25% higher than polyester equivalents Reorder failure: Garments that pill, shrink, or fade don't generate repeat purchases Margin pressure: Cotton's higher fabric cost + shorter lifespan = worse unit economics
The core problem: Cotton was designed by nature to absorb and hold water (it protects seeds from drought). This makes it ideal for towels and terrible for athletic wear where you need moisture to leave the body.
Why polyester solves it: Polyester is hydrophobic—water sits on the surface and wicks outward along fiber channels. The fabric surface stays dry. The wearer stays comfortable.
The 5-Step Fiber Selection Process
Use this decision framework when specifying fiber content for new sportswear products:
Step 1: Define the Activity Intensity Level
High-intensity (running, HIIT, team sports, gym training): → Polyester is mandatory. Cotton will result in customer complaints.
Medium-intensity (golf, tennis, casual cycling): → Polyester recommended. Cotton-like polyester acceptable if softness is priority.
Low-intensity (yoga, walking, lifestyle): → Cotton-like polyester preferred. Blends acceptable. Pure cotton only for non-performance casual.
Step 2: Assess Washing Frequency Requirements
Frequent washing (uniforms, gym wear, rental programs): → 100% polyester. Durability and dimensional stability critical.
Moderate washing (personal athletic wear): → Polyester or cotton-like polyester. Both perform well.
Occasional washing (lifestyle/athleisure): → More flexibility. Cotton-like polyester or blends acceptable.
Step 3: Evaluate Brand Positioning
Performance/technical positioning: → 100% polyester. Back it with moisture management specs (AATCC 195).
Premium/luxury positioning: → Cotton-like polyester with premium hand feel. Emphasize softness in marketing.
Sustainable/eco positioning: → Recycled polyester (rPET). Communicate environmental benefits (50-70% less energy than virgin polyester).
Step 4: Calculate Total Cost of Ownership
Don't compare fabric cost alone. Factor in:
- Garment lifespan (washes before replacement)
- Return rate differences
- Customer lifetime value impact
Example calculation:
| Metric | Polyester | Cotton |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric cost per garment | $1.00 | $1.50 |
| Washes before replacement | 100 | 60 |
| Cost per wear | $0.01 | $0.025 |
| Return rate | 5% | 12% |
Result: Polyester delivers 60% better cost-per-wear despite lower perceived "premium" value.
Step 5: Specify and Document
Create a fiber specification document including:
- Fiber content (100% polyester, 92/8 poly-spandex, etc.)
- Required test standards (AATCC 195 moisture management, ASTM D3512 pilling)
- Minimum performance grades
- Approved alternatives (if any)
Fiber Performance Comparison Checklist
Use this table in your sourcing documentation:
| Performance Metric | Polyester | Cotton | Blend (65/35) | Cotton-Like Polyester |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Moisture Wicking | Excellent (AATCC 4-5) | Poor (AATCC 1-2) | Fair (AATCC 2-3) | Excellent (AATCC 4-5) |
| Drying Time | 2-3 hours | 6-8 hours | 4-5 hours | 2-3 hours |
| Weight Increase When Wet | <5% | Up to 25x | 10-15x | <5% |
| Durability (Wash Cycles) | 100-150 | 50-75 | 75-100 | 100-150 |
| Shrinkage | <2% | 3-8% | 2-4% | <2% |
| Pilling Resistance | High (Grade 4+) | Low (Grade 2-3) | Medium (Grade 3) | High (Grade 4+) |
| Wrinkle Resistance | High | Low | Medium | High |
| Hand Feel | Technical, smooth | Soft, natural | Soft | Soft, cotton-like |
| Odor Retention | Moderate (treatable) | Low | Low-Moderate | Moderate (treatable) |
| Fabric Cost (180gsm, FOB) | $2.50-3.50/m | $3.50-5.00/m | $3.00-4.00/m | $2.80-4.00/m |
| Best Application | Performance sports | Casual/lifestyle | Multi-purpose | Premium activewear |
Questions to Ask Your Fabric Supplier
Fiber Composition & Testing
- Can you provide fiber composition certification (independent lab testing)?
- What moisture management test results do you have? (Request AATCC 195 or 197 reports)
- What is the pilling resistance grade per ASTM D3512?
- What is the actual shrinkage test result after 5 wash cycles per AATCC 135?
Cotton-Like Polyester Specifics
- What technology do you use for cotton-like hand feel? (Mechanical brushing, chemical softening, fiber modification?)
- Does the cotton-like treatment affect moisture wicking performance?
- How many wash cycles before the soft hand feel degrades?
- Can you provide a comparative hand-feel sample vs. standard polyester?
Blend Specifics
- What is the exact blend ratio? (65/35, 60/40, 50/50?)
- Is it intimate blend or air-jet blend? (Affects performance characteristics)
- What is the expected shrinkage for this blend?
Sustainability & Certifications
- Do you offer recycled polyester (rPET) options?
- What certifications do you have? (GRS for recycled content, OEKO-TEX for safety)
- What is the recycled content percentage for rPET fabrics?
- Is the recycled content post-consumer or post-industrial?
Common Fiber Selection Mistakes
Mistake 1: Choosing Cotton for "Premium" Activewear
The belief: Cotton is perceived as premium, natural, high-quality. The reality: Cotton fails at the primary job of athletic fabric—moisture management. Premium perception disappears after one sweaty workout. The fix: Use cotton-like polyester. You get the soft hand feel for retail presentation while delivering actual performance.
Mistake 2: Using Blends as a "Best of Both Worlds" Solution
The belief: 65/35 blend gives you cotton softness with polyester performance. The reality: Blends are middling in all categories. You get 40% of cotton's absorption problem with 60% of polyester's benefit. Worst-case performance in high-intensity use. The fix: Choose 100% polyester for performance, cotton-like polyester for feel. Avoid the compromise.
Mistake 3: Ignoring Total Cost of Ownership
The calculation error: Comparing only fabric cost per meter. What's missed: Polyester's 60-100% longer lifespan, lower return rates, and better customer satisfaction. The fix: Model cost-per-wear and factor in return rate differentials before making fiber decisions.
Mistake 4: Specifying Cotton for Uniform Programs
The problem: Cotton uniforms shrink inconsistently (3-8%), requiring complex size-grading and replacement policies. The impact: Fit complaints, higher replacement costs, inventory management complexity. The fix: 100% polyester for any uniform application. <2% shrinkage. Consistent sizing wash after wash.
Mistake 5: Not Testing Cotton-Like Claims
The problem: Some "cotton-like" polyesters lose their soft hand feel after 10-15 washes. The impact: Initial softness disappears, customer expectations unmet. The fix: Request wash durability testing for hand feel. Quality cotton-like treatments maintain softness through 50+ washes.
Mistake 6: Overlooking Anti-Odor Treatment for Polyester
The problem: Polyester's hydrophobic surface can harbor odor-causing bacteria. The impact: "Permanent stink" complaints, especially in gym wear. The fix: Specify antimicrobial treatment (silver ion, zinc pyrithione) for high-sweat applications. Request treatment durability data.
Mistake 7: Using Virgin Polyester When Recycled Is Available
The problem: Missing sustainability messaging opportunity at minimal cost premium. The impact: Competitors with rPET positioning capture eco-conscious segment. The fix: Evaluate GRS-certified recycled polyester. Typically 5-10% premium for significant marketing advantage.
Related Resources
Continue your fiber and fabric education with these guides:
- What Is Pique Fabric? B2B Sourcing Guide — Deep dive on pique for polo shirts and uniforms
- Understanding Fabric Weight: Complete GSM Guide — How GSM affects performance and cost
- Moisture-Wicking Fabrics Explained — Technical breakdown of moisture management
- Bird's Eye Mesh vs. Regular Mesh — When to use mesh for maximum breathability
About Huada Creation's Fiber Options
Fiber expertise: 100% polyester specialists with cotton-like technology Production capacity: 500,000+ meters/month across constructions Certifications: OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GRS-certified recycled polyester available
Our Cotton-Like Polyester Range
| Product Code | Construction | GSM | Composition | Hand Feel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HD7928 | Cotton-like Jersey | 170gsm | 95% Poly / 5% Spandex | Ultra-soft, stretchy |
| HD7887 | Cotton-like Fish Scale | 180gsm | 100% Polyester | Soft with texture |
| HD7978a | Cotton-like Fleece | 260-320gsm | 100% Polyester | Soft brushed interior |
| HD8067 | Cotton-like Pique | 300gsm | 100% Polyester | Soft with structure |
Why We Focus on Polyester
All Huada Creation fabrics are polyester-based because:
- Performance: Proven superior moisture management for activewear
- Durability: 2x lifespan vs. cotton reduces customer replacement costs
- Consistency: <2% shrinkage ensures sizing accuracy
- Value: Lower total cost of ownership for B2B customers
- Sustainability path: rPET options provide eco-credentials without performance sacrifice
Get a Quote for Your Sportswear Project
Ready to source polyester or cotton-like polyester fabric for your activewear line?
Request a Quote — Include your target GSM, construction type (jersey, mesh, pique), volume estimate, and any specific performance requirements. Our team responds within 24 business hours.
Browse All Performance Fabrics — View our complete polyester fabric range with full specifications.