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Jersey Fabric for T-Shirts & Activewear: B2B Sourcing Guide

Cotton-like polyester spandex jersey fabric with soft hand feel for t-shirts and activewear

Jersey Fabric for T-Shirts & Activewear: B2B Sourcing Guide

Direct Answer

Jersey fabric is a single-knit textile produced through weft knitting, featuring a smooth face (V-shaped loops visible) and slightly textured back (horizontal ridges). It is the most common fabric for t-shirts, casual tops, and lightweight activewear, offering natural stretch (25-40% in width direction), soft hand feel, and excellent printability.

For B2B sourcing, the critical specifications are:

  1. Construction type — Single jersey (120-180gsm, curls at edges) vs. double jersey (200-320gsm, no curling, more stable)
  2. Fiber content — 100% polyester for performance and sublimation; cotton-like polyester for softness + performance; add 5-8% spandex for fitted garments
  3. Shrinkage control — Cotton jersey shrinks 5-8%; polyester jersey <3%; always specify pre-shrinking treatment for sizing consistency

Jersey selection framework:

  • Basic t-shirts: Single jersey, 150-180gsm, 100% cotton or cotton-poly blend
  • Activewear: Single jersey with spandex, 150-200gsm, 100% polyester
  • Structured garments: Double jersey or interlock, 200-280gsm
  • Sublimation printing: White polyester jersey, 150-180gsm

TL;DR — Key Sourcing Takeaways

  • Edge curling is inherent to single jersey — It's a feature of the construction, not a defect. Switch to double jersey or interlock if non-curling edges are critical
  • GSM doesn't equal quality — A 160gsm combed cotton jersey outperforms 200gsm carded cotton; yarn type matters more than weight
  • Shrinkage varies dramatically by fiber — Cotton 5-8%, polyester <3%, blends 3-5%. Always specify pre-shrinking treatment
  • Spandex changes everything — 5% spandex adds 4-way stretch and improves shape retention, but requires recovery testing
  • Sublimation needs specific specs — Only white polyester jersey works; test construction before bulk order

Table of Contents

  1. Why Jersey Fabric Selection Matters
  2. The 7-Step Jersey Selection Process
  3. Jersey Type Comparison Checklist
  4. Questions to Ask Your Jersey Supplier
  5. Common Jersey Sourcing Mistakes
  6. Related Resources
  7. About Huada Creation's Jersey Capabilities

Why Jersey Fabric Selection Matters

Jersey is the workhorse fabric of the apparel industry—if you're making t-shirts, casual tops, underwear, or lightweight activewear, you're using jersey. The choices you make in jersey specification directly impact:

Customer satisfaction: Wrong weight or fiber content leads to "cheap feel" complaints Production quality: Edge curling causes cutting and sewing challenges Sizing consistency: Shrinkage variance leads to returns and customer complaints Print quality: Wrong construction means sublimation fails or screen prints crack

The core trade-offs:

  • Single jersey = lightweight, soft, curls at edges, lower cost
  • Double jersey = heavier, stable, no curling, higher cost
  • Interlock = smooth both sides, great for baby/sensitive skin, premium cost

Understanding these trade-offs helps you specify the right jersey for your application.


The 7-Step Jersey Selection Process

Step 1: Define Garment Type and Fit

Garment Type Recommended Jersey Why
Basic t-shirts Single jersey 150-180gsm Cost-effective, soft drape
Premium t-shirts Single jersey 180-220gsm (combed cotton or cotton-like poly) Substantial feel, quality perception
Fitted activewear Single jersey + 5% spandex 4-way stretch, recovery
Structured tops/dresses Double jersey 200-280gsm No curling, professional appearance
Baby/children's wear Interlock 180-240gsm Smooth both sides, gentle on skin

Step 2: Choose Fiber Content

Fiber Best For Considerations
100% Cotton Natural feel, casual basics Shrinks 5-8%, wrinkles, slower dry
100% Polyester Performance, sublimation, durability Technical feel, potential odor retention
Cotton-like Polyester Performance with soft feel Best of both worlds, slightly higher cost
Cotton/Poly Blend (65/35) Balance of comfort and durability Moderate shrinkage, compromise solution
Polyester + Spandex Fitted activewear Stretch and recovery, requires testing

Step 3: Select Weight Class

Weight Class GSM Range Best Applications
Ultra-light 100-130gsm Base layers, lingerie, summer basics
Lightweight 130-160gsm Summer t-shirts, casual tops
Medium 160-200gsm Year-round basics, activewear
Heavyweight 200-250gsm Premium t-shirts, structured casual
Extra Heavy 250-320gsm Sweatshirt jersey, ponte, structured garments

Step 4: Address Edge Curling Requirements

If edge curling is acceptable: → Single jersey is cost-effective; manage curling in cutting/sewing process

If non-curling is required: → Use double jersey or interlock → Or specify jersey with spandex (reduces curling due to tension) → Or use edge-finishing techniques (binding, coverstitch)

Step 5: Specify Shrinkage Requirements

Fiber Type Expected Shrinkage Mitigation
100% Cotton 5-8% Specify compacting/pre-shrinking treatment
Cotton/Poly Blend 3-5% Request shrinkage test data
100% Polyester <3% Usually stable; still request test data
With Spandex 2-4% Test recovery as well as shrinkage

Always require: AATCC TM135 shrinkage testing on pre-production samples

Step 6: Evaluate Print/Decoration Requirements

Decoration Method Jersey Requirements
Screen printing Any jersey; heavier weight (160gsm+) prevents ghosting
DTG (direct to garment) Pre-treated jersey or polyester
Sublimation White 100% polyester only; test opacity first
Heat transfer vinyl Any jersey; spandex content affects adhesion
Embroidery Medium-heavy weight (180gsm+) prevents puckering

Step 7: Request Pre-Production Samples

Test before bulk order:

  • GSM verification (should be within ±5%)
  • Shrinkage after 3 home washes (AATCC TM135)
  • Colorfastness (AATCC 61 wash, AATCC 16 light)
  • Hand feel and drape
  • Print test (if applicable)

Jersey Type Comparison Checklist

Use this table when evaluating jersey options:

Specification Single Jersey Double Jersey Interlock Jersey + Spandex
Construction One needle bed Two needle beds Two needle beds, locked Single + elastane
Weight Range 120-200gsm 200-320gsm 180-280gsm 150-220gsm
Stretch Direction Width (25-40%) Both (15-25%) Both (20-30%) 4-way (40-60%)
Edge Curling Yes (significant) No/minimal No Reduced
Opacity Lower (depends on weight) Higher High Medium
Face/Back Different (V-loops vs ridges) Similar Identical Different
Hand Feel Soft, thin Substantial Smooth, refined Stretchy, recovery
Cost Lowest Medium-high Medium-high Medium
Best Applications T-shirts, basics, underwear Dresses, ponte pants, jackets Baby wear, polos, medical Activewear, fitted tops
Shrinkage (Cotton) 5-8% 3-5% 3-5% 3-5%
Shrinkage (Polyester) <3% <2% <2% 2-4%
Huada Product HD7928 (170gsm, 95/5 Poly-Spandex)

Questions to Ask Your Jersey Supplier

Yarn & Construction

  1. What yarn count is used? (Finer count = 30s, 40s = softer; coarser = 20s = more durable)
  2. Is this combed or carded cotton? (Combed is smoother, stronger, pills less)
  3. What knitting gauge is used? (Higher gauge = finer, denser fabric)
  4. Is this weft-knit or circular knit? (Affects width and production efficiency)

Quality & Performance

  1. What is the shrinkage rate after AATCC TM135 testing? (Cotton should be <5% if pre-shrunk)
  2. What pilling grade does this achieve per ASTM D3512? (Minimum Grade 3-4)
  3. What is your GSM tolerance? (Industry standard ±5%)
  4. Is the fabric enzyme-washed or peached? (Affects softness and strength)

For Spandex Jersey

  1. What is the spandex percentage and type? (Lycra, Creora, generic?)
  2. What is the stretch and recovery rate per ASTM D3107? (Require >90% recovery)
  3. Does recovery hold after 25 wash cycles?

For Sublimation/Printing

  1. Is this suitable for sublimation? (Must be white 100% polyester)
  2. What is the opacity for white garments? (Test required for fitted styles)
  3. Is pre-treatment applied for DTG printing?

Sourcing & Logistics

  1. What are MOQs for stock colors vs. custom lab dips?

Common Jersey Sourcing Mistakes

Mistake 1: Treating Edge Curling as a Defect

The belief: "The fabric is defective because it curls at the edges." The reality: Edge curling is inherent to single jersey construction. The face curls toward you at top/bottom edges; the back curls toward you at side edges. The fix: Accept curling and adapt cutting/sewing processes, or switch to double jersey/interlock for non-curling edges.

Mistake 2: Specifying Weight Without Yarn Quality

The problem: A 160gsm carded cotton jersey feels cheaper than a 140gsm combed cotton jersey. Weight alone doesn't predict quality. The fix: Specify yarn type (combed vs. carded), yarn count (30s, 40s), and request hand-feel samples before bulk order.

Mistake 3: Not Accounting for Shrinkage in Sizing

The problem: Cotton jersey shrinks 5-8% on first wash. Without pre-shrinking, a size M becomes a tight S. The fix: Specify compacting/pre-shrinking treatment, or size patterns up 6-8% to account for shrinkage. Always test actual samples.

Mistake 4: Using Single Jersey for White Fitted Garments

The problem: Lightweight single jersey in white is often see-through, especially when stretched. The fix: Test opacity before bulk. Use heavier weight (180gsm+), double jersey, or add lining panels.

Mistake 5: Assuming All Spandex Jersey Recovers Equally

The problem: Cheap spandex jersey stretches but bags out after 5-10 wears. The garment loses shape. The fix: Require ASTM D3107 stretch recovery testing. Quality spandex (Lycra, Creora) provides >90% recovery after 50 cycles.

Mistake 6: Using Cotton Jersey for Performance Activewear

The problem: Cotton absorbs moisture and stays wet. Athletes complain about clammy, heavy fabric during workouts. The fix: Use 100% polyester or cotton-like polyester for any activewear application. Save cotton for casual/lifestyle products.

Mistake 7: Ordering Sublimation on Wrong Jersey

The problem: Sublimation on colored jersey or cotton/blend jersey fails—colors are dull, wash out, or don't transfer. The fix: Sublimation requires white 100% polyester jersey. Always test construction before bulk—some polyester weaves/finishes don't take sublimation well.

Mistake 8: Ignoring Colorfastness for Activewear

The problem: Jersey dye bleeds onto other garments or fades quickly with frequent washing. The fix: Specify AATCC 61 Grade 4+ for wash fastness, especially for dark colors. Request test reports from production.


Related Resources

Continue your knit fabric sourcing research:


About Huada Creation's Jersey Capabilities

Production capacity: 300,000+ meters/month jersey fabric In-house capabilities: Circular knitting, dyeing, finishing, quality testing Certifications: OEKO-TEX Standard 100, shrinkage and pilling testing per AATCC/ASTM

Our Jersey Fabric Products

Product Code Construction GSM Composition Key Features
HD7928 Cotton-like Jersey 170gsm 95% Poly / 5% Spandex Ultra-soft hand feel, 4-way stretch, moisture-wicking, sublimation-compatible

Why HD7928 Cotton-Like Spandex Jersey

This product solves the cotton-vs-polyester dilemma:

  • Cotton-like softness — Specialized finishing mimics natural cotton comfort for retail appeal
  • Polyester performance — Moisture-wicking, quick-dry, <3% shrinkage, durable
  • 4-way stretch + recovery — 5% spandex ensures fitted garments hold shape through wear and washing
  • Sublimation-compatible — White base accepts vibrant sublimation prints
  • Wide width (180cm) — Efficient pattern cutting, less fabric waste

Testing & Quality

  • Shrinkage testing: AATCC TM135 standard
  • Pilling resistance: ASTM D3512 Martindale method
  • Stretch recovery: ASTM D3107 standard
  • Colorfastness: AATCC 61 (wash), AATCC 16 (light)

Sample Availability

  • Lab dips: 5-7 business days
  • Yardage samples: 1-3 meters, 10-14 days
  • Free swatch samples: Up to 5 fabric types per request

MOQ & Lead Times

Order Type MOQ Lead Time
Stock colors 500m 2-3 weeks
Custom colors 1,000m 4-6 weeks
Custom specifications 2,000m 6-8 weeks

Get a Quote for Jersey Fabric

Ready to source jersey fabric for your t-shirt, activewear, or casual wear line?

Request a Quote — Include target GSM, fiber content preference, stretch requirements, and estimated volume. Our team responds within 24 business hours with pricing and samples.

Browse Jersey Products — View full specifications for HD7928 and our complete fabric range.

Need Free Samples or a Quote?

Browse our knitted fabric catalog, or contact our team for free samples and fast sampling support (7 days).